Professional Photography

How to Go Unnoticed as an Event Photographer in Los Angeles

When photographing events in Los Angeles, outside of shooting photos like group shots and formals, my goal as a photographer is to never be noticed when making an image. I want to make honest images. I want to photograph people’s true self, not the version they want to present. I do this by not letting them know I am photographing them in the first place.

As a professional event photographer, I take a full body approach to my craft. Rather than limit my growth to the accumulation of technical knowledge, I take a holistic approach to how I constantly work at improving my skills as a photographer. This article will touch on some of these techniques I use as an event photographer in Los Angeles to go unnoticed by my subjects and capture emotion filled candids.

Avoid Eye Contact, Use Your Peripheral Vision

As a kid I used to love sneaking around like a ninja. My friends and I used to play capture the flag at night. But instead of flags we tagged each other by throwing oranges at one another like crazy people. This usually resulted in drawn out brawls of throwing oranges back and forth. But my approach was always different. Rather than engaging in a back and forth fight, I would stalk my friends or wait in hiding until I could sneak up behind them with an orange in my hand and tag them. They never saw me coming. One of the ways I achieved this was by never actually looking directly at them. You know that feeling of being watched? In my experience when gazing at my target they could sense my presence. Rather, I tracked my subject using my peripheral vision.

When on the job this is something I employ. I want truthful images. When someone knows they are being photographed they tend to perform. But through the use of some deceptive tactics, I am able to prevent someone from knowing they are being photographed. In addition to using my peripheral vision, often I will point my camera just slightly in someone else's direction. I do this while concurrently monitoring my true subject with my peripheral vision. 

I minimize my ability to quickly capture something like a big smile by pre focussing before I point my camera away from the subject. Back button focusing tremendously helps with this.

Pre Visualize Your Shots

Knowing the image you’re trying to make prior to raising your camera to your eye saves time. This will allow you to go unnoticed by not raising your camera until you take the shot (if at all).

A large part of your ability to pre visualize your image is by knowing your focal lengths- or in other words: your field of view. This mostly works with primes as they have a set field of view. If you know it, you are able to quickly move into position to get the framing you want, without actually looking through your lens. This is a skill gained through repetition. If you work as a photographer, I believe it is something you will develop intuitively. But if you are just starting out, I recommend practicing. Do this by bringing your camera wherever you go and try to guess your field of view prior to raising the camera to your eye. You can even do this without a camera at all. Just start training yourself to see in focal lengths in your day to day life.

How I Hold My Camera to React Quickly

I never grip my camera. I hold it as gently as possible so that I am relaxed and not tense. If your muscles are tense, your breathing and mindset will be tense and vice versa. Often I shoot long days without a break. Just this week I shot for 10 hours straight without a real break. If I were to have been firmly gripping my camera for that amount of time, my hands would have cramped. 

In addition to avoiding fatigue, the way I hold my camera directly affects how nimble I am and therefore how quickly I am able to respond to things. Rather than grip my lens, I use two to three fingers to create a pivot with my left hand. This allows me to swing my lens (especially my long telephoto) agily into position. 

How I Move as a Photographer

How I move is probably the most important factor in me going unnoticed. I move intentionally: every move I make, from the steps I take, to how I navigate crowds, is done deliberately. To be clear, moving deliberately is not the same as moving robotically. Everything should flow. Don’t be a rhino. Rarely is athleticism discussed in regards to a photographers skill, but it is in fact essential to anyone looking to take their craft to the next level. 

Do Photographers Need to Wear Black?

The short answer is no but it depends on the job. In my opinion, rules are for people with a boss. If you take your craft seriously, you will understand the game. You will know when not wearing black is acceptable. 

It is my opinion that the methods discussed go much further in allowing you to go unnoticed as a photographer than what you are wearing will. On the job, you’ll likely be in a sea of people, all wearing different colors, many of them wearing black or grey. Do you really think this is going to be the pivotal thing that allows you to effectively blend in? Of course there are some exceptions to this rule. If I know I am going to be on stage or blocking people’s field of view to get my shots of, say a guest speaker or award recipient, I prefer black. It goes without saying that you should not wear anything flashy. I personally stick with black and grey suits, but this is more out of a preference than a rigid rule.

How to Dress as a Photographer. Can You Look Too Good?

No. You can never look too good as a photographer. I’m not a very material person, but one thing I like are well fitted suits. In fact, when on the job, I often get complimented on them.This is a good thing. It leaves a strong impression and can lead to more work from attendees. Remember, most people will never see your images at an event, but they will see how you conduct yourself. 

Although you can not dress too well, you can overdress. Until you just kind of get a feel for how you should dress, my advice is to simply ask your client. 

Conclusion on How to Go Unnoticed and Capture Candid Moments

There's a lot more to going unnoticed as a photographer than what you wear from how you move, where you look, and even how you hold your camera. In fact, there are probably many things I employ to be ninja-like that I’m not consciously aware of. I’ll keep thinking on this to come up with more ways I go unnoticed. That way I can work on them further and share them with you. In the meanwhile, what are some of the ways you go unnoticed as a photographer?




Los Angeles Event Photography: Shooting Detail Shots with a 400mm Lens

If you’ve been reading my event photography blog or following my Youtube channel on event photography, you probably know how important I believe it is to stay engaged with your craft, and to try new things in order to keep things interesting and avoid burnout. At a recent event in Malibu California, I did just that.

Using my Canon m50, a vintage 400 millimeter lens as well as a Minolta MC Rokkor - PF f1.4 lens and a Canon FD 50mmm macro lens, I decided to challenge myself to not only use vintage, manual focus lenses to make interesting detail shots, but to also to also use a Canon m50, a non professional grade camera.

As always, I showed up to my job early- very early. This allowed me to get all of my “safe” detail shots, with plenty of time to experiment after.

I use a variety of lenses when shooting detail shots, but usually I use the Canon 24-70mm f2.8, Canon 135mm f2, and the Canon 85mm 1.8. Like I said, I shoot “safe” first and only use available light or a single strobe. In this case, there was plenty of beautiful diffused light to work with.

After getting all the safe shots, first I switched over to the Canon FD 50mm Macro. This has been an incredibly fun lens for me to use. I don’t actually own a modern macro lens. Honestly, as an event photographer, I don’t really need to. But I have found that it has allowed me to really open up my mind to new possibilities when it comes to shooting detail shots: the ability to get really close allowed me to shoot details of the details, which I quite enjoyed. A quick note: you do not need to shoot close up with a macro lens. They can of course be used as a regular old lens if you choose.

Next I decided to try using my Minolta mount 400mm telephoto lens. Adjusting for the Canon M50’s crop, this is a 600mm lens… without image stabilization. Because of this, and my desire to shoot wide open, I found it an incredibly difficult lens to pull focus with. But when I was able to pull it off, it definitely created a unique look due to its compression.

Lastly, I shot with an old school Minolta MC Rokkor - PF f1.4 lens. I love this lens. In all honesty it’s not super sharp wide open, but I honestly don’t mind it. I love making images that have a unique look. I’m not one for arbitrarily stylizing my images just to make them look different, but using vintage lenses to get a different look works for me.

Interested in seeing some vintage glass compared?

Comparing Vintage Lenses on the Canon M50


I have been a professional Los Angeles event photographer and photography instructor for over 10 years. Follow the links below to see my work and be sure to subscribe to my channel on Youtube for more videos

YOUTUBE

Instagram | @retrograding https://www.instagram.com/retrograding/

Facebook | https://www.facebook.com/mikmilman/

How to Use an External Camera Flash // Part 2

Part Two of How to Use an External Camera Flash

In this video I focus on how to properly use modifiers and bounce your flash for more pleasing results. I use all of these techniques in my event photography work, but they are applicable to anything. Watch the video below for more information. I also wrote the main points in the continuation of this article.

No Modifier, Flash Pointed Forward

Unless you’re going for a 90’s disposable camera aesthetic, this is the worst way you can use your flash. It creates a very flat image as it lacks tonality due to the flash coming being positioned on axis with your lens. Directional light creates depth. Lighting without direction looks flat. The effect is especially noticed on faces in which this sort of light creates what I call a “frog face” look, as people’s features are flattened and blown out.

Bouncing Your Flash Off of the Ceiling and Using a Fill Card

This is my least favorite way to bounce light, but it works. You simply aim your flash upward in order to bounce light down onto your subject. This bounced light will be softer and larger than light directly from your flash/strobe unit. The fill card has the effect of adding a catch light in the eyes of your subject. Without this, you can potentially get the “dead eyes” look in which eyes appear lifeless due to not having a light source reflected in them.

Bouncing Your Flash Off of the Corner of a Room

This is my favorite way of using my flash. It allows for a natural gradation of light to cascade across your subject, adding depth. Using your flash in this way also has the effect of more evenly falling across the ambient environment, crating a more balanced, and therefore natural look.

Bouncing Your Flash Off of a Wall Directly to Your Side

This is a technique I don’t use often, but to great effect when I do. By bouncing my strobe off of a white wall immediately to the side of me and my subject, I am able to get a giant softbox like effect. This large window of light has a more studio like look I love when appropriate.

Using a Light Modifier (Any Defuser)

This is my least favorite way to diffuse my light. It gets the job done in that it creates a softer, more flattering light. But what I don’t like is that it lacks direction, which creates a flatter look. However, when there are no walls to bounce light off of, this is your only way to go…for the most part. The way I solve this problem is by hand holding my flash and triggering it from my camera. This can be a goofy way to work, having to hand hold your flash in one hand and your camera in the other, but it does create very pleasing results. You’re essentially creating a Rembrandt light setup.

I have been a professional photography work for 10 years while teaching photography at the same time. Follow the links below to see my work and be sure to subscribe to my channel on Youtube for more videos

YOUTUBE

Instagram | @retrograding https://www.instagram.com/retrograding/

Facebook | https://www.facebook.com/mikmilman/

www.mikmilman.com